THE SURFER’S PADDLE OUT

Gathering on the beach to honor their fallen fellows – often at sunrise or sunset – surfers take to the water, paddling out beyond the break. Straddling their boards  to form a floating circle, they hold hands in union with one another and their fallen fellow. Someone speaks words of remembrance,  then the surfers send up hoots, whistles or chants. Clasped hands are raised, then lowered to splash the surrounding waters and/or boards. Leis, wreaths or loose flowers are thrown into the center  of the circle, followed by a few moments of silence. Finally, pointing their boards to the sky the surfers turn slowly toward shore, flowers swirling in the wakes left behind them.

The paddle out is the way surfers around the world honor their dead. While it is a floating memorial service with flowers and reminiscings, there are no dirges. Many surfers believe the paddle out stems from  Polynesian tradition, but Hawaiian historians are skeptical saying that ancient burials in the islands took place on land. They also say it is more likely that paddle outs began with modern surf culture, first held in the early 20th Century by “the beach boys.” the men who taught surfing at the first tourist resorts in Waikiki.

Steve Pezman, local publisher of the Surfer’s Journal, has said that paddle outs began to show up on the mainland in the late teens and ’20s, then spread along with the sport, especially in the late ’50s and early ’60s after the movie  Gidget came out. Then by the late ’70s and early ’80s if a surfer’s circle was seen on the water it indicated someone had died.

The paddle out has special meaning for our family.  While my husband wasn’t a surfer, in the Air Force he was a champion swimmer. He loved the beach and appreciated the sport of surfing. He abhorred funerals, and upon his death – honoring his wishes – my three sons (all surfers) paddled out onto the waters by his favorite San Clemente beach, formed a floating circle, said a prayer and honored his life.

Since that time I walk on that same beach often, and for me it is a place for remembering.